Hydrolipidic Characteristics and Clinical Efficacy of a Dermocosmetic Formulation for the Improvement of Homeostasis on Oily Mature Skin.

BACKGROUND: Although the scientific literature associates mature skin with dry skin and the secretion of sebum on the face decreases over the years, in tropical countries, such as Brazil, mature skin can still present oily characteristics. Thus, the knowledge of the hydrophilic characteristics of mature skin is fundamental to help the development of more effective treatments for this skin type. In this context, the study aimed to evaluate the hydrophilic characteristics and the clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation for mature skin added with alfalfa and lentil extracts by using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. METHODS: Twenty-eight healthy females aged between 45 and 59 years were enrolled. Measurements of the stratum corneum water content, sebum content, transepidermal water loss, skin microrelief, and pores count were performed before and after the 28-day formulation application. RESULTS: The mature skin presented as oily with wrinkles and pores. The proposed formulation significantly reduced the sebum content and the number of fine and large pores and improved skin microrelief and hydration after a 28-day period of the application when compared to the vehicle. CONCLUSIONS: The proposed formulation was effective in oily mature skin treatment, improving its general skin aging and oiliness conditions, and reducing pores count in just 28 days.

Eco-friendly sunscreen formulation based on starches and PEG-75 lanolin increases the antioxidant capacity and the light scattering activity in the visible light.

Most modern sunscreens contain physical filters, which scatter the sunlight, increasing the photons' pathway in the upper stratum corneum. This effect can lead to a better efficacy of the UV filters and improve the diffuse reflection. However, the addition of nanosized inorganic UV filters reduces the antioxidant capacity of sunscreen formulations. Two cream formulations (F1, F2) which differ in the ingredient PEG75 Lanolin (F2), have been characterized for their radical protection factor (RPF) and their optical properties in vitro using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and UV/VIS spectrometry. The RPF for PEG-75 Lanolin was also determined. Furthermore, their radical protection properties were analyzed on porcine skin ex vivo after visible light irradiation by EPR. The structure of each formulation in the skin surface was determined by reflectance confocal microscopy in vivo. The addition of lanolin increased the reflectance and reduced the transmittance for visible light, improving the scattering drastically. Besides, the antioxidant capacity was also increased for F2, something unpublished until now. F1 presented a lower scattering provided by starches. The sunscreens showed high scattering properties and antioxidant capacity, especially for F2, which presented the lowest radical formation in the skin model. These results are consistent with the RPF measurements where F2 has a higher RPF value (193 ± 3 × 1014 radicals/mg) than F1 (155 ± 4 × 1014 radicals/mg) and for PEG-75 Lanolin (37 ± 1 × 1014 radicals/mg). The combination of starches and PEG-75 Lanolin is the first solution to provide both, light scattering and antioxidant capacity, in sunscreens.

Optimization of cosmetic formulations development using Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology: physical, sensory and moisturizing properties

Considering the importance of an adequate composition of the formulation in the development of stable, safe and effective cosmetic products, experimental design techniques are tools that can optimize the formulation development process. The objective of this study was to develop topical formulations using the Box-Behnken design with response surface methodology and evaluate its physical, sensory and moisturizing properties. The experimental design used in the first step allowed to identify and to quantify the influence of raw materials, as well as the interaction between them. In the second step, the analysis identified the influence of soy lecithin, the phytantriol and capric acid triglyceride and caprylic on the consistency index, stickiness and greasiness and skin hydration. Cetearyl alcohol, dicetyl phosphate and cetyl phosphate 10EO and acrylates/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer showed effects in rheological parameters. The addition of soy lecithin had significant effects in terms of consistency index, stickiness, oiliness and immediate moisturizing effects. Phytantriol showed effects on increasing consistency index and oiliness sensation. Thus, the experimental design was shown to be an effective tool for research and development of cosmetics, since it allowed the assessment of the individual and interaction effects of raw materials in the responses: rheological parameters, sensory and clinical efficacy.

Safety of a formulation containing chitosan microparticles with chamomile: blind controlled clinical trial.

OBJECTIVE: to evaluate the safety of a topical formulation containing chamomile microparticles coated with chitosan in the skin of healthy participants. METHOD: phase I blind, controlled, non-randomized, single-dose clinical trial with control for skin, base formulation, and formulation with microparticles. The variables analyzed were irritation and hydration by the Wilcoxon and Kruskall-Wallis tests. RESULTS: the study started with 35 participants with a mean age of 26.3 years. Of these, 30 (85.71%) were female, 29 (82.90%) were white skinned and 32 (91.40%) had no previous pathologies. One participant was removed from the study reporting erythema at the site of application, and four other participants for not attending the last evaluation. In the 30 participants who completed the study, the tested formulation did not cause erythema, peeling, burning, pruritus or pain; there was an improvement in cutaneous hydration in the site of application of the formulation with microparticles. In the evaluation of the barrier function, there was an increase in transepidermal water loss in all sites. CONCLUSION: the formulation with chamomile microparticles is safe for topical use, not causing irritation and improving skin hydration over four weeks of use. Its effects on barrier function need further investigation. No. RBR-3h78kz in the Brazilian Registry of Clinical Trials (ReBEC).

Hair straighteners: an approach based on science and consumer profile

Technological progress has allowed women to change their natural hair configuration according to their will. This type of treatment is very popular around the world, even involving the use of prohibited chemicals, such as formaldehyde. Studies of hair characterization, straighteners and toxic evaluation are available in the literature, although few studies have evaluated the consumer profile or the current legislation of Brazil and the European Union (EU) and its influence on the consumption of hair straighteners. Previous studies from our research group have shown that hair care is essential for the quality of life and well-being of women. Within this context, the present study aimed to evaluate the profile of Brazilian hair straightener consumers, as well as the legislation of Brazil and the EU and its influence on the use of these products. The consumer profile was evaluated by applying questionnaires and the legislation was examined using documental and bibliographic exploratory research. The results provided a full understanding of the current legislation of Brazil and its similarities to EU legislation. It was observed that over 50% of Brazilians currently use or have previously used hair straightener products, even persons who do not have curly hair, suggesting that straight hair is more attractive for today's society. Although the study participants consider the current legislation to be important, over 40% do not know the active ingredients present in the hair straightener they use. Finally, the legislation is not considered in terms of the daily hair treatment routine, with the esthetic result being more important to the consumer

Safety of a formulation containing chitosan microparticles with chamomile: blind controlled clinical trial / Segurança de uma formulação contendo micropartículas de quitosana com camomila: ensaio clínico, mascarado e controlado / Seguridad de una formulación conteniendo micropartículas de quitosano con manzanilla: ensayo clínico, enmascarado y controlado

ABSTRACT Objective: to evaluate the safety of a topical formulation containing chamomile microparticles coated with chitosan in the skin of healthy participants. Method: phase I blind, controlled, non-randomized, single-dose clinical trial with control for skin, base formulation, and formulation with microparticles. The variables analyzed were irritation and hydration by the Wilcoxon and Kruskall-Wallis tests. Results: the study started with 35 participants with a mean age of 26.3 years. Of these, 30 (85.71%) were female, 29 (82.90%) were white skinned and 32 (91.40%) had no previous pathologies. One participant was removed from the study reporting erythema at the site of application, and four other participants for not attending the last evaluation. In the 30 participants who completed the study, the tested formulation did not cause erythema, peeling, burning, pruritus or pain; there was an improvement in cutaneous hydration in the site of application of the formulation with microparticles. In the evaluation of the barrier function, there was an increase in transepidermal water loss in all sites. Conclusion: the formulation with chamomile microparticles is safe for topical use, not causing irritation and improving skin hydration over four weeks of use. Its effects on barrier function need further investigation. No. RBR-3h78kz in the Brazilian Registry of Clinical Trials (ReBEC).

RESUMO Objetivo: avaliar a segurança de uma formulação tópica, contendo micropartículas de camomila revestidas com quitosana, na pele de participantes saudáveis. Método: ensaio clínico fase I, mascarado, controlado, não aleatorizado, de dose única, com controles da pele, da base da formulação e da formulação com micropartículas. As variáveis analisadas foram irritação e hidratação por meio dos testes de Wilcoxon e Kruskall-Wallis. Resultados: iniciaram o estudo 35 participantes com idade média de 26,3 anos. Destes, 30 (85,71%) eram do sexo feminino, 29 (82,90%) brancos e 32 (91,40%) sem patologias prévias. Um participante foi descontinuado por referir eritema no local de aplicação e quatro por não comparecerem à última avaliação. Nos 30 participantes que finalizaram o estudo, a formulação teste não causou eritema, descamação, ardor, prurido ou dor; houve melhora na hidratação cutânea no local de aplicação da formulação com as micropartículas. Na avaliação da função barreira houve aumento da perda transepidérmica de água em todos os locais. Conclusão: a formulação com micropartículas de camomila é segura para o uso tópico, não provocando irritação e melhorando a hidratação cutânea ao longo de quatro semanas de uso. Seus efeitos na função barreira devem ser melhor estudados. N° RBR-3h78kz no Registro Brasileiro de Ensaios Clínicos (ReBEC).

RESUMEN Objetivo: evaluar la seguridad de una formulación tópica, conteniendo micropartículas de manzanilla revestidas con quitosano, en la piel de participantes sanos. Método: ensayo clínico fase I, enmascarado, controlado, no aleatorizado, de dosis única, con controles de la piel, de la base de la formulación y de la formulación con micropartículas. Las variables analizadas fueron irritación e hidratación por medio de los tests de Wilcoxon y Kruskall-Wallis. Resultados: iniciaron el estudio 35 participantes con edad media de 26,3 años. De esos, 30 (85,71%) eran del sexo femenino, 29 (82,90%) blancos y 32 (91,40%) sin patologías previas. Un participante fue descontinuado por referir eritema en el local de aplicación y cuatro por no comparecer a la última evaluación. En los 30 participantes que finalizaron el estudio, la formulación test no causó eritema, descamación, ardor, prurito o dolor; hubo mejora en la hidratación cutánea en el local de aplicación de la formulación con las micropartículas. En la evaluación de la función barrera hubo aumento de la pérdida transepidérmica de agua en todos los locales. Conclusión: la formulación con micropartículas de manzanilla es segura para el uso tópico, no provocando irritación y mejorando la hidratación cutánea a lo largo de cuatro semanas de uso. Sus efectos en la función barrera deben ser mejor estudiados. N° RBR-3h78kz en el Registro Brasilero de Ensayos Clínicos (ReBEC).

Use of silicon for skin and hair care: an approach of chemical forms available and efficacy.

Silicon is the second most abundant element on Earth, and the third most abundant trace element in human body. It is present in water, plant and animal sources. On the skin, it is suggested that silicon is important for optimal collagen synthesis and activation of hydroxylating enzymes, improving skin strength and elasticity. Regarding hair benefits, it was suggested that a higher silicon content in the hair results in a lower rate of hair loss and increased brightness. For these beneficial effects, there is growing interest in scientific studies evaluating the efficacy and safety of using dietary supplements containing silicon. Its use aims at increasing blood levels of this element and improving the skin and its annexes appearance. There are different forms of silicon supplements available and the most important consideration to be made in order to select the best option is related to safety and bioavailability. Silicon supplements are widely used, though there is wide variation in silicon bioavailability, ranging from values below 1% up to values close to 50%, depending on the chemical form. Therefore, the aim of this study was to evaluate the scientific literature related to the different chemical forms of silicon supplements available and the limitations and recent progress in this field. According to reported studies, among the different chemical forms available, the orthosilicic acid (OSA) presents the higher bioavailability, whereas the others forms have absorption inversely proportional to the degree of polymerization. However, clinical studies evaluating safety and efficacy are still lacking.

Importância do perfil de textura e sensorial no desenvolvimento de formulações cosméticas / Importance of texture and sensorial profile in cosmetic formulations development

Introdução: Assim como a avaliação da eficácia clínica de formulações cosméticas nas reais condições de uso é imprescindível, a correlação destes resultados com análises do perfil de textura e sensorial faz-se necessária, pois impactam diretamente na continuidade do tratamento cosmético. Objetivo: Avaliar e correlacionar o perfil de textura, características sensoriais e eficácia clínica de formulações cosméticas contendo oligossacarídeos da alfafa, polissacarídeos da mandioca e filtros solares. Métodos: Foram avaliados o perfil de textura, características sensoriais e a eficácia clínica de formulações, por meio de técnicas de biofísica e análise de imagem. Resultados: Os métodos empregados apresentaram correlação, pois, a formulação acrescida de filtros e ativos proporcionou melhores espalhabilidade e características sensoriais. A avaliação da eficácia clínica se mostrou coerente com a análise sensorial uma vez que o parâmetro "pele macia" pode ser comprovado com o aumento da hidratação e melhora do microrrelevo da pele. Conclusões: A aplicação e correlação das técnicas empregadas possibilitaram a definição e obtenção de formulações com aceitação sensorial e eficácia clínica comprovadas na melhora da textura e hidratação da pele. Assim, este estudo apresenta contribuição na área dermatológica, uma vez que o sensorial adequado favorece a adesão ao uso do produto e o consequente sucesso do tratamento.

Introduction: The evaluation of the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations in real conditions of use is indispensable and the correlation of these results with texture and sensory profile analyses is necessary because impacts directly in the continuity of cosmetic treatment. Objective: The evaluation and correlation of the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing alfafa oligosaccharides, cassava polysaccharides and sunscreens. Methods: It was evaluated the texture and sensorial profile, and clinical efficacy of formulations through biophysical and imaging analysis techniques. Results: The methods presented a good correlation, because formulation added with suncreens and active ingredients provided better spreadability and sensorial properties. The assessment of clinical efficacy was coherent with the sensory analysis once the "skin smoothness" parameter could be proven with the increase of hydration and improvement of skin microrelief. Conclusions: The application and correlation of the used techniques enabled the definition and obtainment of a formulation with sensory acceptance and proven clinical efficacy in the improvement of texture and skin hydration. Thus, this study provides contribution in dermatological area, once an appropriate sensory favors the adhesion to the use of the product and the consequent treatment success.

Use of silicon for skin and hair care: an approach of chemical forms available and efficacy

Abstract Silicon is the second most abundant element on Earth, and the third most abundant trace element in human body. It is present in water, plant and animal sources. On the skin, it is suggested that silicon is important for optimal collagen synthesis and activation of hydroxylating enzymes, improving skin strength and elasticity. Regarding hair benefits, it was suggested that a higher silicon content in the hair results in a lower rate of hair loss and increased brightness. For these beneficial effects, there is growing interest in scientific studies evaluating the efficacy and safety of using dietary supplements containing silicon. Its use aims at increasing blood levels of this element and improving the skin and its annexes appearance. There are different forms of silicon supplements available and the most important consideration to be made in order to select the best option is related to safety and bioavailability. Silicon supplements are widely used, though there is wide variation in silicon bioavailability, ranging from values below 1% up to values close to 50%, depending on the chemical form. Therefore, the aim of this study was to evaluate the scientific literature related to the different chemical forms of silicon supplements available and the limitations and recent progress in this field. According to reported studies, among the different chemical forms available, the orthosilicic acid (OSA) presents the higher bioavailability, whereas the others forms have absorption inversely proportional to the degree of polymerization. However, clinical studies evaluating safety and efficacy are still lacking.

Comportamento de homens e mulheres quanto ao consumo de cosméticos e a importância na indicação de produtos e adesão ao tratamento / Cosmetics consumption behaviour among men and women and the importance in products indication and treatment adherence

Introdução: Os cosméticos apresentam-se em destaque no comércio não só no Brasil, mas mundialmente. Há grande necessidade do conhecimento das motivações de compra dos consumidores para o desenvolvimento de produtos mais bem direcionados e melhora na adesão de tratamentos dermatológicos. Objetivo: Conhecer os hábitos de consumo cosmético e fornecer um link da área farmacêutica com a área médica. Métodos: Estudo observacional analítico do tipo transversal, realizado por meio de questionário. Resultados: A principal alteração na pele masculina é a oleosidade, nas mulheres além dessa há a preocupação com manchas. O consumo de produtos de higiene é unânime em ambos os sexos. As mulheres se mostram mais preocupadas com o tratamento e prevenção de danos solares. A maioria das mulheres utiliza produtos antiacne e maquiagens. Produtos para cabelo apresentam a mesma tendência de vendas tanto para homens quanto para mulheres, não sendo o mesmo observado entre os produtos para pele. Conclusões: Homens e mulheres apresentam diferentes motivações no momento de adquirir produtos cosméticos. A forma de relacionamento do consumidor com os produtos tem mudado expressivamente, e ele vem buscando expressar sua individualidade perante a sociedade. Isso reflete a necessidade do conhecimento médico de tais motivações a fim de melhorar a adesão dos pacientes ao tratamento.

Introduction: Cosmetics stands outs in commerce, not only in Brazil but also worldwide. There is great need for knowledge on buying motivations of consumers for the development of better-targeted products and improved adhesion to dermatological treatments. Objective: To know the cosmetic consumption habits and provide a link from the pharmaceutical with the medical area. Methods: An analytical observational study, cross-sectional, was conducted by questionnaire. Results: Main change in male skin is oiliness; in women, besides oiliness, there is concern with blemishes. The consumption of hygiene products is unanimous in both sexes. Women are more concerned with the treatment and prevention of sun damage. The vast majority of women use anti-acne products and makeup. Hair products have the same sales trend for both men and women, but this is not observed among products for skin. Conclusions: Men and women have different motivations when buying cosmetics. The way consumers relate with products has changed dramatically and they are seeking to express their individuality in society. This reflects a need for medical knowledge of such motivations in order to improve patients' adherence to treatment.

Evaluation of the Brazilian Cosmetic Legislation and its impact on the industries during the 20th century

ABSTRACT Cosmetics have been used since the very first days of human life. This early and continuing consumption has resulted in the growth of the Cosmetic Industry (C.I.). The C.I. must continue to invest in the development of innovative products which are safe for the consumers. On the other hand, the Health Agency should issue laws regulating the development of products. Thus, the aim of this study was to evaluate the Brazilian Cosmetic Legislation before ANVISA and the challenges for the C.I. during the 20th century regarding the development of safe and effective cosmetics, and to show the importance of this legislation in the R&D. A Bibliographic and Documentary Exploratory Research was conducted based on safety and efficacy data contained in scientific studies and legal documents. The study showed that the creation of ANVISA was necessary because no resolution had been published about the safety and efficacy of cosmetics for the C.I. before ANVISA. However, the challenges faced by the C.I. may have had a negative impact on the health of consumers. Finally, it was concluded that the actions before ANVISA were insufficient to the C.I.. Thus, the creation of ANVISA was essential to have a regulatory basis fot the C.I.

RESUMO Os cosméticos são usados desde os primeiros dias de vida do ser humano. Consequentemente, esse consumo resulta no crescimento da Indústria Cosmética (I.C.). Com isso, a I.C. deve focar seus investimentos também no desenvolvimento de produtos inovadores, mas, acima de tudo, seguros para os consumidores. Por outro lado, a Agência Sanitária deve emitir leis que regulam o desenvolvimento desses produtos. Assim, o objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar a Legislação Cosmética Brasileira anterior à ANVISA e os desafios da I.C. no século XX no desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos seguros e eficazes, bem como mostrar a importância dessa legislação na P&D. Para tal, realizou-se uma Pesquisa Exploratória Bibliográfica e Documental com base em estudos científicos e documentos legais. Dessa forma, o estudo mostrou que a criação da ANVISA foi necessária porque nenhuma resolução tinha sido publicada sobre a segurança e eficácia de cosméticos antes da ANVISA. Com isso, os desafios enfrentados pela I.C. poderiam ter um impacto negativo sobre a saúde dos consumidores. Por fim, concluiu-se que as ações anteriores à ANVISA foram insuficientes para a I.C. Assim, a criação da ANVISA foi essencial para ter uma base regulatória para a I.C..

Acetyl hexapeptide-3 in a cosmetic formulation acts on skin mechanical properties - clinical study

abstract Acetyl hexapeptide-3 has been used in anti-aging topical formulations aimed at improving skin appearance. However, few basic studies address its effects on epidermis and dermis, when vehiculated in topical formulations. Thus, the objective of this study was to determine the clinical efficacy of acetyl hexapeptide-3 using biophysical techniques. For this purpose, formulations with and without acetyl hexapeptide-3 were applied to the ventral forearm and the face area of forty female volunteers. Skin conditions were evaluated after 2 and 4-week long daily applications, by analyzing the stratum corneum water content and the skin mechanical properties, using three instruments, the Corneometer(r) CM 825, CutometerSEM 575 and ReviscometerRV600. All formulations tested increased the stratum corneum water content in the face region, which remained constant until the end of the study. In contrast, only formulations containing acetyl hexapeptide-3 exhibit a significant effect on mechanical properties, by decreasing the anisotropy of the face skin. No significant effects were observed in viscoelasticity parameters. In conclusion, the effects of acetyl hexapeptide-3 on the anisotropy of face skin characterize the compound as an effective ingredient for improving conditions of the cutaneous tissue, when used in anti-aging cosmetic formulations.

resumo Acetil hexapeptídeo-3 tem sido utilizado como um ingrediente ativo em formulações tópicas antienvelhecimento para a melhoria da aparência cutânea. No entanto, poucos estudos avaliam seus efeitos na epiderme e derme, quando veiculado em formulações tópicas. Portanto, o objetivo desse estudo foi a determinação da eficácia clínica de acetil hexapeptídeo-3 utilizando técnicas de biofísica e de análise de imagem. Para tal, formulações contendo, ou não, acetil hexapeptídeo-3 foram aplicadas no antebraço volar e na face de voluntárias. As condições cutâneas foram avaliadas após duas e quatro semanas de aplicação diária das formulações, por meio da análise no conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo e avaliação das propriedades mecânicas da pele, utilizando os equipamentos Corneometer(r) CM 825, CutometerSEM 575 e ReviscometerRV600. Todas as formulações avaliadas aumentaram o conteúdo aquoso do estrato córneo na face, o qual permaneceu constante até o fim do estudo. Por outro lado, somente as formulações contendo acetil hexapeptídeo-3 apresentaram efeito significativo nas propriedades mecânicas, por meio da diminuição da anisotropia da pele na face. Não foram observados efeitos significativos para os parâmetros de viscoelasticidade. Em conclusão, os efeitos de acetil hexapeptídeo-3 na pele caracteriza este peptídeo como um ingrediente ativo efetivo para a melhoria das condições cutâneas, quando utilizadas em formulações cosméticas.

Avaliação celular das estruturas cutâneas por meio da microscopia confocal de reflectância / Evaluation of cutaneous cellular structures by reflectance confocal microscopy

A microscopia confocal de reflectância (MCR) ganhou grande destaque na área cosmética e dermatológica, pois permite a análise morfológica e estrutural da pele de forma não invasiva.Esse estudo utiliza a MCR na avaliação das diferentes células e dos tecidos cutâneos, além da análise morfológica da unidade pilossebácea. Comparou-se a morfologia microscópica das células cutâneas e da unidade pilossebácea, das imagens de 21 voluntárias do estudo com os dados já publicados na literatura científica. O estrato córneo apresentou células anucleadas e com contraste devido à queratina. As camadas granulosa e espinhosa apresentaram células nucleadas, com núcleo escuro e o citoplasma claro. Na camada basal se observaram células brilhantes devido à melanina. As papilas dérmicas se apresentaram como células com contraste, formando anéis ao redor de células mais escuras. A derme papilar e a reticular superficial mostraram estruturas com contraste, devido ao colágeno. O folículo piloso apareceu como canal com pelo e a glândula sebácea apresentou formato oval, com células de núcleo escuro e citoplasma claro. Os folículos pilosos com comedões continham obstruções no lúmen folicular. A MCR possibilitou a identificação e a diferenciação das camadas da pele e da unidade pilossebácea, mostrando seu potencial para avaliação cutânea dinâmica.

Tretinoin-based formulations - influence of concentration and vehicles on skin penetration

Tretinoin is used in the management of acne and it is part of a gold standard treatment for photoaging. It has also been reported as an agent for superficial chemical peeling in highly concentrated formulations with few considerations about skin penetration. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of drug concentration and vehicles currently used on skin penetration of tretinoin. In vitro permeation tests were carried out using Franz diffusion cells fitted with porcine ear skin and 10% aqueous methanol in the receptor compartment. Formulations studied, cream or hydroalcoholic dispersion, containing 0.25%, 1% and 5% of tretinoin were placed in the donor compartment for six hours. Tretinoin concentration in skin layers was measured by high performance liquid chromatography. The largest amount of tretinoin from both vehicles was detected in stratum corneum with significant differences among the three concentrations. The hydroalcoholic dispersion was the best vehicle. Significant amounts of tretinoin were found even in deep layers of epidermis. The formulation with 0.25% tretinoin showed better results when considered the amount of tretinoin on skin in terms of percentage. Finally, skin penetration of tretinoin was influenced by vehicle and concentration of this drug used in formulation.

A tretinoína é usada no tratamento de acne e é considerada como padrão de ouro para o tratamento do fotoenvelhecimento. Em altas concentrações, é relatada como um agente para peeling químico superficial, com poucas considerações sobre a penetração na pele. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar a influência da concentração do fármaco e os veículos comumente usados na penetração cutânea da tretinoína. Testes in vitro de penetração foram realizados com células de difusão de Franz equipados com pele da orelha de porco e 10% de solução aquosa de metanol no compartimento receptor. As formulações estudadas, creme ou dispersão hidroalcoólica, contendo 0,25%, 1% e 5% de tretinoína foram colocadas no compartimento doador, durante seis horas. A concentração da tretinoína foi medida por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência. A maior quantidade de tretinoína foi detectada no estrato córneo com diferenças significativas entre as três concentrações. A dispersão hidroalcoólica foi o melhor veículo. Quantidades significativas de tretinoína foram encontradas nas camadas profundas da epiderme. A formulação com 0,25% de tretinoína mostrou melhores resultados em termos de porcentagem penetrada na pele. Por fim, a penetração de tretinoína na pele foi influenciada pelo veículo e pela concentração desta utilizada na formulação.

Benefits of combinations of vitamin A, C and E derivatives in the stability of cosmetic formulations.

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.

Efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, alpha-lipoic acid and kinetin.

The present study aimed to evaluate the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing a dispersion of liposome with magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), alpha-lipoic acid (ALA) and kinetin, as well as their effects on the hydration and viscoelastic skin properties. The photoprotection was determined in vitro (antioxidant activity) and in vivo on UV-irradiated hairless mouse skin. The hydration effects were performed with the application of the formulations under study on the forearm of human volunteers and skin conditions were analyzed before and after a single application and daily applications during 4 weeks in terms of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture and viscoelastic properties. The raw material under study possessed free-radical scavenging activity and the formulation with it protected hairless mouse skin barrier function against UV damage. After 4 weeks of application on human skin, the formulation under study enhanced stratum corneum skin moisture and also showed hydration effects in deeper layers of the skin. Thus, it can be concluded that the cosmetic formulation containing a dispersion of liposome with MAP, ALA and kinetin under study showed photoprotective effects in skin barrier function as well as pronounced hydration effects on human skin, which suggests that this dispersion has potential antiaging effects.

Immediate and long-term effects of polysaccharides-based formulations on human skin

A new trend in cosmetic formulations is the use of biotechnological raw materials as the polysaccharides from Klebsiella pneumoniae, which are supposed to enhance cell renewal, improve skin hydration and micro-relief. Botanical extracts of Myrtus communis leaves contain different sugars, which may provide the same benefits. Thus, the objective of this study was to evaluate through objective and subjective analysis the immediate and long-term effects of cosmetic formulations containing polysaccharides biotechnologically-originated and / or the ones contained in Myrtus communis extracts. Three polysaccharide-based and placebo formulations were applied on the forearm skin of 40 volunteers. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), viscoelasticity and skin micro-relief measurements were made before and 2 hours after a single application and after 15 and 30 day-periods of daily applications. Answers to a questionnaire about perceptions of formulation cosmetic features constituted the subjective analysis. All polysaccharide-based formulations enhanced skin hydration. Formulations with isolated or combined active substances improved skin barrier function as compared to placebo, in the short and long term studies. Formulations containing Myrtus communis extracts had the highest acceptance. Results suggest that daily use of formulations containing these substances is important for protection of the skin barrier function.

Uma nova tendência em formulações cosméticas é a utilização de matérias-primas biotecnológicas como os polissacarídeos de Klebsiella pneumoniae, que pode aumentar a renovação celular e melhor a hidratação e micro-relevo da pele. Por outro lado, o extrato vegetal de Myrtus communis contém diferentes polissacarídeos, que também podem proporcionar benefícios à pele. Assim, o objetivo do estudo foi a avaliação dos efeitos imediatos e em longo prazo, de formulações cosméticas contendo polissacarídeos obtidos por processo biotecnológico e/ou de extrato de M. communis por meio de análises objetivas e subjetivas. Três formulações contendo os polissacarídeos e um placebo foram aplicadas na pele dos antebraços de 40 voluntários. As medidas foram realizadas antes e após 2 horas da aplicação das formulações e após 15 e 30 dias de aplicações diárias em termos de hidratação da pele, perda transepidérmica de água (TEWL), viscoelasticidade e micro-relevo da pele. Para a análise subjetiva, os voluntários responderam um questionário a fim de obter-se informações sobre a percepção relativa à qualidade de cosméticos. Todas as formulações provocaram aumento da hidratação cutânea. As formulações que continham os polissacarídeos melhoraram a função barreira da pele, em curto e em longo prazo. A formulação contendo extrato de M. communis apresentou maior aceitação. Os resultados sugerem que o uso diário dos polissacarídeos avaliados é importante na proteção da função barreira da pele.

A HPLC method to evaluate the influence of photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing UV-filters and vitamins A and E.

This paper reports a simple and reliable HPLC method to evaluate the influence of two currently available photostabilizers on cosmetic formulations containing combined UV-filters and vitamins A and E. Vitamins and UV-filters, widely encountered in products of daily use have to be routinely evaluated since photoinstability can lead to reductions in their efficacy and safety. UV-irradiated formulation samples were submitted to a procedure that included a reliable, precise and specific HPLC method employing a C18 column and detection at 325 and 235 nm. Methanol, isopropanol and water were the mobile phases in gradient elution. The method precision was between 0.28 and 5.07. The photostabilizers studied [diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) and benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (BTDC)], influenced the stability of octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) associated with vitamins A and E. BTDC was considered the best photostabilizer to vitamins and OMC when the UV-filters were combined with both vitamins A and E.

Rheological behavior, zeta potential, and accelerated stability tests of Buriti oil (Mauritia flexuosa) emulsions containing lyotropic liquid crystals.

BACKGROUND: It is well known that the Amazon region presents a huge biodiversity; therefore, countless natural resources are being employed in the production of phytocosmetics and phytomedicines. OBJECTIVE: The purpose of this work was to obtain emulsions produced with Buriti oil and non-ionic surfactants. METHODS: Two surfactant systems were employed (Steareth-2 associated to Ceteareth-5 and to Ceteareth-20) to produce the emulsions using phase diagram method. Emulsions were obtained by echo-planar imaging method at 75°C. Rheological behavior and zeta potential were evaluated, and accelerated stability tests were performed. RESULTS: All emulsions analyzed presented pseudoplastic behavior. Zeta potential values were obtained between -14.2 and -53.3 mV. The formulations did not show changes in either physical stability, pH, or rheological behavior after accelerated stability tests. Significant differences were observed only after temperature cycling test. CONCLUSION: Based on these results, the emulsions obtained could be considered as promising delivery systems.

Farmacologia e a pele / Pharmacology and the skin

A Farmacologia é o estudo dos fármacos e dos seus efeitos nos organismos vivos. A pele, um órgão que apresenta a importante função de proteção do corpo, é uma importante via de administração de medicamentos e a permeação destes pelo estrato córneo, a barreira mais externa da pele, é um desafio para o tratamento dermatológico e transdérmico. Várias substâncias podem ser aplicadas na pele com fins terapêuticos, possuindo alvos em diferentes camadas da pele e podendo exercer diversos mecanismos de ação, devido à complexidade e variedade de funções do órgão. Na terapia farmacológica da pele, fatores como características do fármaco, constituição do veículo e características da pele podem interferir na permeação do ativo e consequentemente no acesso ao seu alvo terapêutico. O estudo da farmacologia e da cosmiatria dermatológica é uma área de grande interesse, sendo que o conhecimento da biologia da pele, constituição do veículo e o mecanismo de ação das substâncias ativas são essenciais para o desenvolvimento de formulações de uso tópico seguras e eficazes.